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Contents

• Hull preparation- Rudder, Motor , Bottom Paint, Weight Distribution.
• Setting the rigging
• Launching and retrieving
• Sailing
• Storing and Maintenance
• Tips
• Warranty Card

Hull Preparation

Rudder bolts should be very tight when first launched , causing the rudder to feel stiff when the boat is out of the water. An hour of sailiing will work the gudeons and pintles to their proper adjustment.

Select a motor that is as light as you can live with (power wise). Some of the happiest Slipper sailors use a 2 hp motor. In areas with severe tides or rough cuts, a larger motor is necessary but keep in mind that the more weight you put on the transom, the more counterweight you will need in the bow to make her sail on her lines, and the more weight you add, the more friction, the slower the hull speed.

Your dealer can install the motor bracket for a long shaft or short shaft motor. Again, a short shaft is preferable because of the weight and cost, but consider your needs first. A long shaft may be preferable if the boat is to be used in rough following seas.

Water bags, head, anchor and supplies should be stored as far forward as possible to counter motor and people weight in the cockpit. It may be necessary to move persons forward in the cockpit and deck to cause the boat to sail on her lines. Substantial speed and helm differences can be realized by proper weight distribution causing the Slipper to sail on her designed waterline. An inexpensive bubble level, available at a marine or hardware store, is useful.

Rigging

Slippers are equipped with anodized Dwyer mast and boom extrusions of high hardness and strength (about 6060 T1).

The rigging is made from 1/8" SS 1x19 wire swaged (not crimped) to stainless steel and brass turnbuckles and eyes. The Slipper is one of the few boats in it's size range to utilize lower shrouds. A spreader is not needed because the upper shrouds run off the mast at an angle greater than 10 degrees. This is due to the beam of the boat.

A backstay is recommended when sails other than the standard main and jib are used. Spinnakers and large genoas can and have been used without a backstay, but you will have to use them at your own risk.

Setting up the Rigging for the First Time -

1. Remove mast and boom and rigging from plastic bag and inspect for shipping damages.
2. Remove cotter pins and adjust turnbuckles to their fully extended position.
3. Place horizontal mast in position on the deck with the hatch closed and insert the 3"x3/8" mast pin through the mast step and mast and hand tighten the lock nut.
4. Attach the upper shrouds only with the adjusters set at about the halfway hole. (re-install all cotter pins).
5. Step the mast, with two persons. One should pull the mast up with the forestay while the other pushes up the mast.
6. Set the forestay in the bow tang, hand tighten and replace cotter pins.
7. Set the lower shrouds , hand tighten evenly, and replace cotter pins.

The mast, if adusted properly, should stand perpendicular to the waterline stripe. The rigging, if adjusted properly should be taught, not tight, and should cause the mast to be straight when viewing it looking up from the bottom of the sail slot. Unevenly tightened lower shrouds will put a bend in the mast half way up.

Run the 3/16x2' line half way through the out haul on the boom end casting and tie one overhand not. Attach the end of the other 3/16" line to the down haul eye of the gooseneck and attach the boom to the mast. String the mainsheet through the pulley blocks on the boom and on the track in the cockpit. (the shorter of the 2 3/8" spun dacron lines).

Attach the jib sheet to the clew of the jib by pushing the middle of the sheet thru the clew cringle then feeding the rest of the sheet thru that loop. Place the battens in the mainsail.

Launching and Retrieving

The beauty of the Slipper is that it can be launched in almost any ramp. Care should be taken, however, to float the boat off the trailer rather than sliding it like a powerboat hull.

The same goes for retrieving it. You should not have to crank the boat for more than 3 feet on to the trailer.

A good recommendation would be to spray all the non-galvanized trailer parts with an automotive undercoating as soon as possible. Rinse the trailer with fresh water after every dunking in salt water.

Fill the bearing buddies with grease every 3rd or 4th launch. Check all of the bolts for tightness upon receipt of the trailer. It is not necessary to remove the rudder for trailering.

Steps to follow when launching are:

1. Secure centerboard in the up position.
2. Tie the bow and stern lines on for and aft cleats to hold the boat at the launch dock.
3. Back the boat down to the edge of the water and release the bow hook.
4. Back the trailer into the water until the boat is almost floating. Then "hi the brakes". The momentum of the boat should pull it off on the trailer.
5. For double safety, to prevent unattended roll, never leave your vehicle unless it is in "park" and the parking brake is set.

Steps to follow when retrieving are:

1. Secure the centerboard in the up position.
2. Back the trailer into the water until only the forward 2 feet of the bunk boards are protruding from the surface of the water.
3. Center the boat on the trailer and crank the bow up to the chock.
4. Drive out slowly looking to see if the keel is centered in the keel guides.
5. Stop and crank the bow tight to the bow chock. Most states require a tie down strap for trailering.

Trailering the Slipper on it's factory specified "wide stance" trailer is a breeze and it's easy to forget that the boat is behind you…. Don't. Turning clearances required for the boat and trailer are not extreme and are learned very quickly. A class "A" hitch is required with a 1-7/8" ball. The wire that attaches to your car is provided with the trailer, brown lead = running lights, yellow = left directional and brake, green = right direction and brake, white = ground.

Sailing

Unless you really did you homework, you have stumbled onto one of the few sailboats that , to the surprise of many, out-sails her looks. Though she has a wide beam, she also has a long waterline, and greater sail carrying ability in heavy air. She has an optimum prismatic coefficient (0.517) with a total wetted surface area of 71 square feet. You about to realize the effect of proper design in a "cruising " sailboat.

Assuming you are in the water with your sails footed on the boom and hanked on the forestay, halyards and sheets fastened, and centerboard in the up position;

1. Head the boat up into the wind, pull the mainsail up to the very top of the mast and cleat off the main halyard.
   
   
2. Pull down on the downhaul just to the point that the wrinkles are out of the luff of the sail and cleat.
   
   
3. Follow the same procedure with the outhaul.
   
   
4. Lower the centerboard gently. The centerboard should only be used when sailing to the windward in waters greater in depth than 19".

   In the event that you run aground, pull up the centerboard immediately. Do not let the stalled boat sit or back up on the centerboard,

   The boat will still sail about 50 degrees into the wind even with the centerboard up.
   
   
5. Set the jib sail by pulling the halyard until it is as tight as you can get it by hand, then cleat it off. Look at the luff of the jib occasionally while sailing to be sure there are no sags between the hanks. A loose luff on the jib will cost you windward performance.
   
   
6. The Slipper sails outstanding in medium and heavy air, but she will hold her own in light air as well. In light air, sail her like a big boat; that is , let the sails hang out and fill. The most common mistake in light air sailing is to sheet the sails in to far, thereby stalling the foil in what littler air there is . As forward motion is established, then slowly trim in the sails and point higher into the wind.
   
   
7. Use the rudder as little as possible while sailing. Rember that applying the rudder is turning on the friction. Also be sure that the boat is sitting on her lines. Move the crew forward if necessary to keep the transom out of the water. If the boat squats, a vacuum is created beneath the aft sections, and the hull form is sucked aft instead of forward.
   
   
8. The boat sails best at best a 10 degree heel angle. Her greatest righting moment is at about 45 degrees, but at that angle the weather helm will steer her into the wind, so that angle is seldom experienced. (A sort of self-righting fail-safe).
   
   
9. The Genoa should be sheeted between the upper and lower shrouds for best windward performance. You will experience the luxury of not having to deal with spreaders.
   
   
10. Reef points are standard in the mainsail, but the hardware needed to reef will have to be installed by yourself or your dealer. There are various systems available for quick reefing.
    
    
11. The cruising spinnaker is a fantastic sail that is simple to use and requires no additional hardware besides the recommended backstay option. Practice using the spinnaker in light air for a while before attempting to use it in medium air.

Storing and Maintenance

Tips

Installing a bilge pump- The aft end of the keel is hollow and it will be the place where water collects first. Run the bilge hose down behind the CB tube to access this area.

Gelcoat repair. Grind out the crase or bubble and sand the perimeter for about 2" with 220 grit sandpaper. Fill the area inside the sanded perimeter with catalized gelcoat (gelcoat mixed with 2% hardener) with a business card. Apply 3 coats and taper the edges finely, sand with 220 paper and a sanding block until the patch is smooth. Remove the 220 grit scratches with 400 grit paper. Remove the 400 grit scratches with 600 paper. Buff the gelcoat to a shine with rubbing compound. Practice makes perfect.

Insert 5 amp fuses in the switch panel for the lights and accessories. (there are two unused switches on the panel)

Store the drop board under one of the settee cushions while the cabin is open.

Sail Power - All driving force is derived from thte sails. Sail ribbons (air flow indicators) should bep placed about 16" in from the luff of the sail, midway up , on both sides of the sail for optimum power, both ribbons should point parallel to each other (in the same direction).

Walk on Cat's paws. Excess movement in the boat in light air upsets airflow on the sails and causes friction below the waterline.

Cruising- "A place for everything and everything in it's place", an old adage for boats. Have nylon duffle bags for each member on board for sneaks, clothes, toilet articles. Stow them aft under the cockpit sole. Different colored bags for easy identification can be used for items like anchor and line, stove, cooking hardware, first aid kit, etc.

If you have a problem with water splashing up through the CB penant tube while sailing, the cure is to cut the corner off a sponge (about ¾" cube) and stuff it into the CB penant tube through hull with a coat hanger. It should be pushed down about 4" so that it is caught in the tube beneath the through-hull and the CB trunk pipe.

Limited Warranty.